![[Tiger 321]](321_1.gif)
| Building the Suspension (Packs 5, 6, 7, and 8) | |
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There are two general types of fixed blocks (CE0202), those for 4mm and 5mm torsion bars. The correct suspension assembly is based on the right position of these fixed blocks. The 'mm' numbers next to each fixed block in the image indicates the size of the torsion bar to be fitted later. Click here for a 1280x960 image. |
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An
enhancement worth considering is drilling a hole in each suspension
block to provide an easy way to oil the suspension shaft. An eighth
inch drill bit was used. Make sure you drill the top side of only
the bearing blocks (CE0201), not the fixed block (CE0202) used to
secure the torsion bar. |
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The bottom of the hull reveals the numerious M4*8 cap head screws.
This produced a rough surface, the real Tiger was smooth. These screws
also made it hard to slide the hull around as I worked on it. I also
figured these would snag on things when I ran the tank later. So countersinking
the holes was next. |
| Careful consideration must be given to countersinking the holes. Cap head screws allow for some adjustment of the suspension blocks so that they are centered in the hull openings. Countersinking the mounting holes will offer little or no adjustment of the mounting blocks. A correctly drilled countersink will position the block so the suspension shaft turns freely. An improperly drilled countersink will at worst, cause misalignment of the block, and binding of the suspension shaft. | |
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Here is a view of the countersunk screws in the hull bottom. The original
M4*8 cap heads were replaced with M4*8 csk screws (flat head socket
caps). While the before and after views look similar, the smooth floor
is much nicer. The countersunk holes were done with a hand drill using
a 90 degree countersink bit. |
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Adjustment of the bearing/fixed blocks is limited. At this point in
the assembly, I noticed some of the blocks extended slightly beyond
the hull floor edge, forcing the lower hull side away from the floor.
I used a 5 inch disc sander to carefully sand off the side of any
blocks that extended beyond the hull edge. The result was a tight
fit of the lower hull side to the hull floor edge. |
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I
had problems getting the hull bottom to fit the hull sides AND get
the suspension shafts to turn freely in the bearing blocks. It was
very important to fit the bottom in a way to get it all to work. It
was tempting to file the mounting holes for the blocks, but don't
do it. This was the resulting gap in the rear, everything else fit
fine. |
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On the left side there is a space of about 6 inches where the bearing
blocks do not support the hull bottom. Because of my difficulty with
attaching the hull to the rear plate, I had to add this M4 screw to
secure the hull side to the rear most bearing block. Without the screw,
attaching the floor to the rear edge caused the suspension arm to
bind in the lower hull opening. |
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Each suspension shaft was trial fitted without the torsion bar in
place to make sure it turned without resistance. |
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Special consideration must be given if you plan to install the motors
as supplied from Armortek for Option Pack 1. On the right side, third
axle from the front, (fourth brass block) the screws used to secure
the torsion bar may hit the motor mount as the axle swings up from
the horizontal. If you have already installed the axle, you should
be able to easily switch with another similar axle/torsion bar assembly. |
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The extra threads sticking out on the suspension arms were ground
flush, filled, and sanded smooth. The suspension shaft, arm, and wheel
axle were cleaned and glass beaded in preparation for primer. Don't
glass bead or primer the area on the suspension shaft that contacts
the brass bearing block. |
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This is a picture of a Tiger 1 from schwere Panzer-Abteilung 508 in
the field undergoing repairs after hitting a mine in Italy. Nice view
of the suspension arm and wheel. |
| Tip: Clean out any burrs/glass media by running a 4/5mm drill bit into each suspension shaft torsion bar hole. The shafts were secured to the suspension arms using Loctite Blue 206. | |
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Using the original M4*8 cap head screws on the suspension shaft will
some cases result in the cap head striking the hull floor. Replacing
them with M4*8 set (grub) screws will provide clearance and allow
a lock nut to be fitted. No Loctite was used on the threads, in case
adjustment was needed later. |
| Alternate Idea: Some other owners have used a shorter grub screw for a flush fit, this may allow the torsion bar to be fitted to the hull while attached to the suspension arm, but Loctite should be used to secure the set screw. | |
 I
was not able to get enough torque to secure the torsion bars using
the M4*8 set screws. The allen key is so small it begins to twist.
Another option is the use of M4x6 bolts. Filing a flat spot on the
torsion bar for the set screw to contact worked well. There must be
a taper from the flat spot to the outer radius of the bar. If there
is a 'step', this will create a stess point and the bar may break.
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The torsion bars are 260mm long, the open space between the fixed
block and suspension arm is 220mm, so that leaves only 20mm to fit
into the fixed block / suspension shaft. Holes are drilled deeper
than 20mm into the block / shaft. During assembly it is possible for
the torsion bar to accidently slide deeper into the suspension arm
hole. This will cause problems when fitting the bar to the fixed block
as the outboard screw may not contact the bar. |
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I measured the depth of the hole in the suspension arm and subtracted
20mm. The result (7mm-12mm) was then cut from a piece of steel rod
and inserted into the suspension arm. The torsion bar ends were filed
to a slight taper, then tapped home into the arm using a brass hammer.
The remaining rod should measure 240mm, resulting in a perfect fit
for the final assembly into the fixed block. |
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The right side suspension arms are fitted at a 45 degree angle trailing.
To make it easier to use the 45 degree gauge, I fitted the arms starting
from the rear. Armortek instructions call for 45 degrees. Myself and
other owners are going with 30 degrees. |
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The left side suspension arms are fitted at a 45 degree angle leading.
These were fitted starting from the front. |
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My kit included cast aluminium suspension arms, some had the holes
for the shaft and/or axle drilled wrong. They are now supplying CNC
versions in aluminum. |
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The four bump stops from Vince are highly recommended for the leading
and trailing suspension arms. They fit holes already in the Armortek
hull and eliminate the clunk of the arm contacting metal stops. |
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