![[Tiger 321]](321_1.gif)
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Building the Hull (Pack 1) All factory countersunk holes in the hull face toward the exterior, except for the rear hull rear. The top row of holes of the hull rear face inward.
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The
front (CE0108) and rear (CE0111) hull plates are impressive as they
are machined to near scale thickness. Some have said the rear hull
plate is thicker than scale. The original hull was constructed using
similar 'tongue and groove' methods. The parts in these pictures have
been painted after everything was fitted. |
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The initial four sides of the hull are fitted using eight M3*10 cap
head screws. Expect to file some holes to get things lined up. Don't
tighten the screws just yet, there is more fitting to do. It is very
important that the hull is square. |
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Fit the bottom of the hull (CE0101) and secure with M4*10 hex heads.
Doing this now will square up the hull and reduce the time it takes
to fit the remaining hull parts. Note: You may want to consider replacing
the hex heads with M4*10 csk skt screws (not in kit) for a cleaner
look. Drilling the hull bottom is required to countersink the screws
using a 90 degree countersink drill. NOTE: Don't countersink until
the suspension is fitted and working, see my Suspension
Page for more info. |
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Picture of the rear hull right corner. The pannier floors (CE0106
& CE0106_M) will attach to the top of the hull sides and the pannier
floor slips under the rear hull plate (CE0111), between this gap.
File the end of pannier floor to fit the radius indicated in the image.
You may need to loosen the hull screws to fit the plate. |
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Each of the four pannier mounting tabs on the pannier floors were
filled in with JB Weld to eliminate the radius. Shown here is the
use of a strip of plastic to help form a basic mold. The pannier floors
also had two extra holes in the floor area. I was not able to determine
what they were for and they too were filled in with JB Weld. |
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Here
the pannier floor has been fitted to the left side. Note how the radius
on the pannier floor edge fits into the rear hull plate. The hex screws
were loosened to get the plate between the gap. |
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Clamp the pannier plate to the rear hull plate. The rear edge of the
plate should also be flush with the rear hull plate. |
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Most
of the holes in the pannier plate had to be filed. I added 3mm washers
under each of the M3*8 hex head screws. Don't tighten the screws yet
here either. |
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Next the pannier sides (CE0107 & CE0107_M) are fitted and secured
with 14-M3*16 csk skt screws. Clamp the rear of the pannier while
fitting the screws. The holes in the tabs of pannier floor had to
be filed to get everything to line up. |
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The M4*16 csk skt screw that attaches the top rear of the pannier
side to the rear hull required so much filing that the countersunk
hole in the side wasn't centered in the countersink hole. I bought
a 90 degree countersink drill bit to rework the hole. |
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I added an additional M4*16 csk skt screw at the bottom of the pannier
sides to provide more strength to the hull. |
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The hull upper front (CE0110) also required filing of the holes to
get it to fit. Four M3*10 cap head screws were used to attach it to
the top of the hull sides. This image also shows the incorrect position
of the boss holes. |
| Once all the parts fit, the hull was disassembled and the parts were cleaned and primered. Both sides were primered with Eastwood Self-Etching Gray Primer. The interior was painted in Dupli-Color Wimbledon White T205. Get it at K-Mart or Autozone. | |
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